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Jens - Interior Wood Refinishing
Bob745_Dallas	Hey Jens, Can you repost the pic of the wood on your dash. I remember seeing it several weeks back on the Forum, but as Scottie points out "once its gone its gone". Also, did you do the refinishing yourself?
Jens	Here you go BOB and yes I did and still doing the doors yet : [img]http://745i.scottiesharpe.com/Welcometo745i_com_files/a.jpg[/img] Sincerely Jens
scottie	What guages do you have there, Jens? Scottie Sharpe Sysop 84 745i 85 535i
Jens	Exhaust temp up to 1600 deg, vacuum pressure, Hour counter, Turbo, Trying to sell the exhaust one it comes with sensor, because I whant an engine temp one. Sincerely Jens
Bob745_Dallas	Thanks Jens. I think it really turned out well. Did you use the procedure that Edward posted not long ago? Or should I ask, what procedure did you use. Specifically, I don't want to go with the high gloss that I used on my Teak wood. I'm in the process of re-finishing the Burl wood and want pretty much the same look you've got there. How does Polycrylic Satin sound (Minwax)? And most importantly, did you steel wool or sand at all after the final coat?
scottie	What is the difference between a vacuum and boost guage. Does not your boost guage read vacuum too? What is the hour counter for? Oh, I know...When you are on a gleeful and relaxing drive after work, it tells you how late you are going to be for dinner! Scottie Sharpe Sysop 84 745i 85 535i
Jens	Bob! No I did not do Edwards proceedure, I did this already over a year ago, I will go thrue my paipers and will pos step ny step for you, with in a day or 2 if thats ok? :) Sincerely Jens
Jens	Scottie! The counter is called an hourly counter, Racers use it to count time on there Engines, boat users use it as well. Sincerley Jens
Bob745_Dallas	Jens, yes please that would be great. Scottie, you can buy boost gauges without vacuum readout and vice versa. I'm using one similar to Jens except it can read up to 25 psi boost. Disadvantage is that the increments are closer together and therefore somewhat harder to read quickly. Not so bad once you're used to it.
Joe745i	Bob, I recommend a wood oil called Watco Danish Oil. This is great because it is simply just an oil and preserves the natural characteristics of the wood; it only conditions it basically. I use the medium walnut color and it is nice and dark like Jens'. If you don't have really deep cracks in your wood, use a really fine steel wool (i.e. 0000) and this will make your wood smoother than a baby's butt!!! If your cracks are deep however, must be careful not to sand through the veneer. Use a really fine grit sand paper (i.e. 400 or finer). Then use the fine steel wool (for smoothness) then oil. You really don't want an oil you have to brush on (more heavy duty and messy). Just buy the kind you wipe on with a rag and wipe off with a rag 5 minutes later. Again, this will preserve the wood and keep it moisturized to prevent cracking (or further cracking). Mine hadn't been conditioned in it's whole life on it is really smooth and great color. It is good to oil the wood with this stuff a couple of times a year. Joe