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"Wood refinishing wood"
Jens	1.) Clean wood very well via water and soap or minural spirit. 2.) Use grate 600 wet and dry sandpayper (Very light) 3.) Use wipe on gell (Bartley Wallnut) let dry over night. 4.) Spray can of polyuratheen 4-codes. 5.) Get polishing oil and a Rottonsone to take out any, uneveneth the lacker created (via the drying process) Hope this is understandble enough! Sincerely Jens
Bob745_Dallas	Clear enough, thanks Jens.
Joe745i	Bob, I recommend a wood oil called Watco Danish Oil. This is great because it is simply just an oil and preserves the natural characteristics of the wood; it only conditions it basically. I use the medium walnut color and it is nice and dark like Jens'. If you don't have really deep cracks in your wood, use a really fine steel wool (i.e. 0000) and this will make your wood smoother than a baby's butt!!! If your cracks are deep however, must be careful not to sand through the veneer. Use a really fine grit sand paper (i.e. 400 or finer). Then use the fine steel wool (for smoothness) then oil. You really don't want an oil you have to brush on (more heavy duty and messy). Just buy the kind you wipe on with a rag and wipe off with a rag 5 minutes later. Again, this will preserve the wood and keep it moisturized to prevent cracking (or further cracking). Mine hadn't been conditioned in it's whole life on it is really smooth and great color. It is good to oil the wood with this stuff a couple of times a year. Joe
turboguy	Anyone copy my detailed desciption for this off the roadfly board... I sent a picture to Jens and listed a detailed - item by item account for the proceedure... You really need to remove all of the old varnish otherwise it will peal up later anyway... You also need to remove any cracks that have occured by sanding them out... I used 220, then 400, then 600... Steel wool #0000, then step clear re-varnished with sanding sealer, steel wooled again, then semi gloss steel wooling between... Coat (3) more times... If anyone can retrieve the archives from roadfly - the description is much better... Best Regards - and glad to be here! Edward Dressel
Bob745_Dallas	Edward, I did indeed copy your procedure. I also asked Jens about his since it turned out so well. I wouldn't mind seeing a picture of yours also. I thought my teak wood interior turned out very well using the walnut stain and polyurethane gloss, but I'm using Minwax polycrylic satin on my burlwood. The stain was way too dark on the burl and I don't want the gloss look. I also tried using a paint and varnish remover to avoid excessive sanding and potential burn through, but the remover also darkened the wood excessively. I still have to do the third 745 with burlwood. The wood is in excellent shape except for a deep gauge about the size of a thumbnail in one of the pieces beside the ashtray. Any tips for dealing with that?
cellguru	Here is Edward's procedure that he posted about 6 weeks ago: First off I work with wood almost daily... And have done quite a few of these babies... But for those of you who want to give this a shot - You'll need the following: -220, 320, 400 wet/dry sandpaper -#0,#000 steel wool -Brushes -M.L. Campbell -C101 20 "Easy sanding clear Lacquer" -C144 19 "Magnalac" Precatalyzed Lacquer Gloss -4 hours -And a smile... Ok, Now the fun begins... You take the sandpaper and remove the old varnish with the 220... BE CAREFULL!!! The real wood is only a veneer - not solid and it is very easy to remove too much! Now, with that said... you want to blow off the sand dust and continue with the step sanding to 320, then 400... You only need to sand lightly and enough to remove scar marks from the previous sanding... Then take your #0 steel wool and rub just as you sand... (for those not working with wood before - SAND WITH THE GRAIN!) Blow off the piece again and find a dry - warm - well vented area... clean... Apply the sanding sealer, moving from one side of the piece to the other - again, with the grain of the wood... smooth out brush strokes upon the passing of each row - never go back over after - It dries to quick... After and hour or so steel wool the piece with #000... Blow off very well and apply the gloss lacquer same as the sealer... Now if you get runs - let dry over night and lightly sand with 400, then steel wool... No sweat... Continue with the application of 3 layers of Lacquer and steel wool as needed between layers... The final finish is up to you... If you steel wool for the satin finish (factory) you need to wax a day or two after... That's it! Good luck, and I hope this helps... Edward